Catch a sommelier and a barman after a busy night or maybe a wine writer who’d just met deadline and there’s a good chance you’ll find Bordeaux Blanc in their glass. It remains a bafflingly overlooked category; a total blind spot for the label-chasers, and an goldmine for the rest of us.
And when it comes to White Bordeaux, the Dubourdieu family is royalty. Famously dubbed “The Pope of White Wine,” the late Denis Dubourdieu is considered foundational by every major wine critic globally. He didn’t just make great wine; he fundamentally rewired the region’s approach to it, championing crystalline purity over clunky, cosmetic oak. Today, his sons Jean-Jacques and Fabrice are carrying that torch.
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Sourced from the gravel-strewn soils of Graves in a beautifully cool 2024 vintage, ‘Liaison’ is a masterclass in tension. You’ve got the citrus-and-chalk energy of Sauvignon Blanc seamlessly fused with the waxy, textural poetry of Sémillon. It’s dazzling. There is zero oak to hide behind, just unadulterated terroir delivering notes of crushed rocks, lemon zest, and subtle gunflint.
But forget the tasting notes for a second. This is an enormously satisfying bottle of white wine. Cold bottle, wine glass, and dinner on the table.
And probably another bottle in the fridge. Grab yours ASAP.
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WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT DENIS DUBOURDIEU ‘LIAISON’ GRAVES BLANC 2024
BODY / STYLE / OAK
Medium-bodied / Aromatic, floral, fruity and mineral / Unoaked
SWEETNESS / ABV
Extra Dry / 12.5% alc./vol.
CELLARING /
Drink now or Cellar
BEST PAIRINGS /
Light Fish, Risotto, Roasted Vegetables, Scallop, Shellfish, Vegetables, White Meat
TASTING NOTE /
It’s aromatically effusive, with lemon, chalk, vanilla, key lime pie, and toasted honey. The palate shows the opulence and tropical fruit notes of Sémillion, balanced by the acidity and minerality of Sauvignon Blanc. In terms of complexity, depth, and nuance, it stands alongside the best $40-and-unders of the Loire and Burgundy.
BOTTLES PER CASE / DELIVERY
6 x 750mL / Complimentary
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THE LOCATION: BORDEAUX, FRANCE
THE PRODUCER: DOMAINES DENIS DUBOURDIEU
THE GRAPES: SAUVIGNON BLANC & SEMILLON