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There is no greater winemaker in Spain than Mariano Garcia. His thirty-year career at Vega Sicilia produced wines that have stood the test of time as the greatest Spanish wines ever produced. When he left in the late 1990s he created two deeply personal projects that today produce wines of Vega Sicilia quality, without paying the four figure price tag. San Roman is his and his son’s wine in Toro, a small windswept plateau in eastern Spain that crafts wines of incredible density, depth and power.
To us, when speaking of these wines you have to put them into context. We have always compared Mariano’s hedonistic but structured style of Tempranillo to the best of Napa Cabernet from Mountain fruit or even to wines from Bordeaux with density and power like Leoville Las Cases or Cos d’Estournel. They exude class and complexity even in their youth but with a freshness that sets them apart from the rest. Simply put – the wines of San Roman have outperformed most classified growth Bordeaux, Cult Napa and pulverized the vast majority of its Spanish competition for decades.
The San Roman is the star of the show and having just done a vertical tasting back to 2005 in Washington, it still shocks me that it is not better known. It is loaded with dark, saturated fruit and an intense mineral backbone that has a powerful finish that reminds me of the best of Napa Valley at just $70. What’s more? It ages into a true masterpiece, showcasing Mariano’s masterful touch.